MAC Flight Stands (4) Large 60mm
Regular price $10.76This product is always in stock.
One set of four (4) laser-cut acrylic magnetic flight stands for tabletop wargaming. Cut from 3mm acrylic, with two heights included (2 x 45mm and 2 x 33mm overall). All parts (except magnets) come to you with a protective paper coating to prevent scratching during transit to you.
Tired of having your flight stands snap from your flyer/skimmer models? Or do you leave them unglued so they can be packed separately for transport, only to have your models tip and spin during gameplay when sitting on the peg? Well, look no further; with Magnetic Flight Stands, you get the best of both worlds. Models are held firmly in place during gameplay but can be separated from their stands for transport. What you get:
- 4 x 60mm Round Bases
- 2 x 45mm Pegs
- 2 x 30mm Pegs
- 4 x Large Support Arms
- 4 x Small Support Arms
- 8 x 3mm x 3mm x 3mm Square RE Magnets
- 8 x 3mm x 2mm Disc RE Magnets
Using a combination of laser-cut acrylic and rare earth magnets (N50), tested on a wide range of small, medium and large flyer and skimmer kits for 25mm to 35mm gaming, following these simple steps for assembly will see to it that you never have to use another type of flight stand again.
While most modellers/gamers prefer clear stands, you also have the option of having your stands made in any of our available colours in the menu above.
NOTE: Best used on medium and large plastic flyers/skimmers, usually deployed in squadrons of up to 3 or individually. Especially so if there is added weight at one point, such as the rear, due to turrets and/or sponsons
 These instructions are for the Large Stands only. For the Small Stands, please see the appropriate listing as they are different for assembly purposes. STEP 1: Starting with your components, 1 Base, 1 Peg, 2 Round 3mm (diameter) x 2mm (thickness) Magnets, 2 Square 3mm Magnets and either the large or small support arm (depending on the kit you are using it for). Remove your protective paper coating from both the base, peg and support arm. |
 STEP 2: Some people find it ideal supergluing the peg into the stand at this stage, as it gives something more to hold onto while placing magnets. Already being a snug fit, you may need to give a little downward pressure onto a flat surface for the peg to make definite contact with the base at the join. Using superglue will make sure that it never falls out. |
 |
 STEP 4: Start by test fitting your square magnet into one of the two small square slots at the top of the peg (as pictured). The top surface of the square magnet will sit flush with the top of the peg, leaving the round magnet sitting proud. Remove the magnets and apply super glue to the three surfaces you noticed that contact the peg. Keep the superglue as minimal as possible to minimise mess. The magnet is a snug fit also. Allow drying. |
 STEP 4a: Again, test fit your second square magnet into the other small square slots at the top of the peg (as pictured). The top surface of the square magnet will sit flush with the top of the peg, leaving the round magnet sitting proud. Remove the magnets and apply super glue to the three surfaces you noticed that contact the peg. Keep the superglue as minimal as possible to minimise mess. The magnet is a snug fit also. Set this aside and allow it to dry. |
 |
 STEP 6: Drill the hole out to a diameter of 3mm. While putting minimal stress on small plastic components, the best way to do this is to run a 3mm drill bit in a cordless drill on a backwards setting. This actually turns the excess plastic into powder under a more controlled action, rather than removing large amounts of swarf too quickly and undesirably. Drill to a minimum of 2mm deep to allow full insertion of the round magnet, any less, and you won't get it to sit flush with the models surface. |
 STEP 6a: Using your flight stand peg as a marker (with magnets attached), locate where you want the second magnet hole drilled. On larger kits with more weight in one location, it is better to have the second magnet closer to that area. For example, if your skimmer/flyer has a rear turret (thus extra weight at the rear), place the second magnet hole towards the rear compared to the original. |
 STEP 7: We recommend using a pin vice with a 1mm drill bit to get this started. The 1mm hole will act as a pilot hole for your 3mm drill bit.
|
 STEP 8: Drill the hole out to a diameter of 3mm. While putting minimal stress on small plastic components, the best way to do this is to run a 3mm drill bit in a cordless drill on a backwards setting. This actually turns the excess plastic into powder under a more controlled action, rather than removing large amounts of swarf too quickly and undesirably. Drill to a minimum of 2mm deep to allow full insertion of the round magnet, any less, and you won't get it to sit flush with the models surface. |
 STEP 9: Place a minimal amount of superglue in each hole you have drilled out. With the round magnets still attached to the peg as shown here (to keep your polarity correct), push the round magnets into the holes. |
 STEP 10: The peg and square magnets won't allow you to push the round magnets any further than flush with the models surface. So even if you have drilled more than 2mm, it simply isnt a problem. |
 STEP 11: All that is left is for you to choose which support arm to place in the centre slot. Two sizes are supplied per stand, giving you the best possible outcomes, depending on the type you assemble. |
 Slide either arm onto the centre slot, preferably adding a minimal amount of super glue to keep it in place. Support arms are also a snug fit onto the peg. These arms have been designed to add left and right OR forward and backward support (depending on your magnet location). The two magnets will do all of the grabbing work, and the arm will stop any tip when the model is moved. Once dry, you have now fully assembled your Magnetic Acrylic Flight Stand. You can now place your model on top and see how it clicks into position. |
